Martine Rose has never been shy from straying beyond the industry’s more formal practice. One of the first contemporary menswear designers to fully utilise the presentation set up, two seasons into London Collections: Men, hers is a label that commits.
Worn by Riri, Drizzy and the rest, previous displays have seen her exhibit a lone model upon a plinth, and team up with hyped art collective #BEENTRILL#. For AW16, following a season offside, she’s collaborated with director Sharna Osborne on an erotically suggestive short film that marries VHS quality with skin flashing close-ups.
Soundtracked by the evocative vocals of Baltimore artist Smokey, the short is thick with references to Robert Mapplethorpe and Mark E Smith, and feels, perhaps, in tune to J.W. Anderson’s recent Grindr livestream and Diesel’s forthcoming Grindr/Tinder/Pornhub ad placements.
Revisiting the Wild Life Archive originally tapped for AW14 (themes from SS15 are similarly explored further), the designer elsewhere notes: “Having a break has given me a renewed energy and focus and has allowed me to develop and incubate new ideas.”
Here she proposes a sexed up aesthetic in addition to the oversized silhouettes for which the label is known, while contrasting textures are seen partnered in a nod to the ‘reality of a man’s wardrobe’.
Directed and Edited by Sharna Osborne
Camera assistants: Chloe Stevens
Lighting: Ben Breading
Styling: Tamara Rothstein
Produced by Martine Rose and Hugh Egan Westland
Models: Joseph Passmore
Music: I'll Always Live You by Smokey (Chapter Music)