JW Anderson Revives Old House Codes For MAW21 and PF21
This week Jonathan Anderson revealed a dual collections campaign for his Men’s AW21 and Women’s PF21 collections. Featuring a total of 37 looks across both collections, this lookbook saw the return of longtime collaborator Benjamin Bruno and the introduction of Juergen Teller to the JW Anderson world.
A sartorial palate cleanser, Anderson described this lookbook as a “revival of the genesis” of his eponymous label. Blurring the lines between gendered seasons and pushing blunt, conceptual looks, MAW21 and PF21 feel like a return to the early days of JW Anderson. Two collections bonded by a primordial approach to shape and an almost wild element of colour and texture throughout; the lookbook features exaggerated, sculptured silhouettes in oversized trenches, puffed sleeves and wide-leg pants alongside sculpted robes and shearling for ambiguous, artful pieces.
Taking advantage of the ephemerous climate, Anderson looked for playful reinvention, experimenting with language and shaping for this lookbook, which he describes as a “playful exercise”. Who better who experiment with than Juergen Teller? Anderson’s first time working with fashion’s favourite photographer, he described Teller’s vision as “graphic”, and “exactly what the collections required” he continues. “Juergen turned it all into an artistic endeavour,” says Anderson, “We chose the poster format exactly because of that, it’s like visiting an exhibition and bringing home the ephemera to hang on your wall.”
Presented digitally and physically as a series of nineteen double-sided posters, each presents the thirty-seven looks from the collections with annotations by Teller for an amusing finish. “Juergen played with misplaced written captions paired with each image" Anderson tells us in an accompanying letter, "creating a strange, amusing conceptual confusion. Bodies turn into living sculptures, aided by the clothing and the vegetables which are a presence throughout the image.”
Watch Jonathan Anderson in his own words, as he discusses working with Juergen Teller, the collection's inspirations and key silhouettes.
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