That’s it, done. The Spring Summer 14 collections are all out in the open for everyone to see, critique and admire, then fill their wardrobes with in six months time.
Gosia Baczynska brought things to a close in Paris yesterday evening, however it was Louis Vuitton’s morning slot that stole the show on the final day with Marc Jacobs’ last collection for the label.
A mash up of many previous hits that included the Sprouse scrawl, carousel set and SS13 escalators, the show received a standing ovation from all in attendance.
If Vuitton stole our minds, it was the six below that made our hearts go boom.
While last summer saw walls smothered with floral delights and necks adorned with simple enough beads, this time a whole garden hung from the ceiling and beads draped down from the neck.
The clothes meanwhile, saw varying hems and shapes cut out, fabrics pleated and shoes with the same point of last year, fussed up somewhat with new colourways and additional straps. It was all the best kind of busy.
Saint Laurent As with AW13, for SS14 Hedi Slimane’s women followed where their men led. This translated as pointy shoes, leather bikers and slender limbs, all thrust into a Slimane tinged version of the 80s.
While a whole lot jazzier (sorry), elements of last season remained with sheer black tops and short black skirts. Certain looks could be last season’s older sister, certain others felt like the SS14 girl dressing up in her boyfriend’s clothes (see the leather lapels and high neck tops).
A standout look was a gold lame dress paired with metallic silver boots.
Rochas With a shared affection for pastel tones, the AW13 Rochas girl could well be the SS14 Rochas girl, earlier that day before she got glammed up for the party.
Fabrics this season were almost candy coloured and glistened in the light, many adorned with pattern, texture or the added glitz of a necklace.
Hair was slightly messy, eye make-up past its best, and a series of shoes resembled mops. If this was a test of endurance, the clothes were the clear winners.
Balmain If the status of pastels for Spring Summer 14 needed cementing further, Balmain was another to add to the list. Three looks in fans were treated to a succulent sorbet get up – modelled by Rosie Hutington-Whitely – while later down the line baby pinks mixed with white in a houndstooth print.
Black and white checks, gold jewellery, black leather and quilted denim completed the collection, each detail bringing with it an added air of excess.
There is a line between fabulous and another word beginning with F, often followed by negatives, but this fell to the former.
Carven There is no specific decade this season, designers have spanned the last forty years for inspiration. A case in point is Carven, who picked up on a 90s vibe that will delight those who dwell east but work in central (London).
Here florals clashed with camouflage, pastels with brights and checks with stripes; shapes came XL and XS (styles that is, models remained standard) and lengths were either long or mini.
A lick of black liner on the inside of the eye and a rose shaped choker – from afar depicting barbed wire – kept a sense of consistency.
Miu Miu Playful plastic buttons, shiny miniskirts, perfect collars, lace up boots, school girl tights; Miu Miu’s new girl could have been a 60s child, if it wasn’t for the 70s pattern on her coat.
Referencing her own SS11 (that applique on the jackets) and SS10 (the beading, pastels and those collars) lines, there was a familiarity from Mrs. Prada this season, but as ever a high level of desirability remained.
All images from Style.com.
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